In Praise of Praise of Bad Coffee

Where does appreciating coffee become fetishizing coffee? As I consider my change in tastes over the years, I wonder whether I have crossed that line. I have to be careful: bean pedigree and abstruse preparations have no intrinsic value; only when they are employed toward the lofty goal of brewing the best-tasting cup are they worth mentioning.

My friend Saul sent me the article below. My only criticism is the way the author rebels against fetishizing quality coffee by fetishizing bad coffee, as if there is something bad coffee can do that good coffee can’t. There isn’t, but the broader point is legit: you are most likely to find great coffee only in places where every detail has been fussed over and controlled - places dedicated to the preparation of great coffee. But you’ll find bad coffee at garages, funerals, hospital waiting rooms, and other places where real life is taking place and no one has the time or cares enough to fret over origins and extraction temperatures.

This is a superb article: a refresher on the best components of “food” writing.

The Case for Bad Coffee

PH

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